Sapporo Snow Festival: 'boards and beer, bro

Day 3- The bucket list killer
The next day we woke up early again, got breakfast, and headed to another festival site that was about an hour away.  This was an exciting day for Reagan because this was the day where we were going to actually play in the snow (something that kids like to do, apparently).  There was many fun activities for children.  There were slides for children, rides for children, toys for children.  Are you sensing a trend? 

Kate and I commented on how much we would have loved this place as a elementary school student.  Although we are famous for acting like small children, we decided to take this opportunity to let the Haines' have some family time while we seeked out a ski resort. 

We decided to stop by the tourist information office at the main Sapporo train station.  Once there, we got the "hook up" for the ski resort.  For 6,700yen ($81), we received two round trip train and bus tickets, lift tickets, and rentals!  I just about had an accident in my pants.  Comparing this to the $118 we would spend on lift tickets alone at Durango Mountain Resort makes my head want to explode.  Not to mention the fact that we were going to the site of the 1972 Winter Olympics, Mt. Teine.  

In front of the Olympics main lodge. This mountain hosted the alpine skiing course, the bobsleigh course, and the luge course.  

Kate and I had never done any night skiing/snowboarding before, so that was the plan.  Once we got on the slopes, we noticed that we could see Sapporo AND the northern coastline.  For a couple kids who grew up snowboarding/skiing in the highly elevated, landlocked Rocky Mountains, this was especially awesome.

Despite the constant snowfall, you can still make out the Sapporo city lights on the right side of the photo above the snowboarder's head.  Where those lights end on the left is where the coastline is.  There was really only one that we could go on, but we still had a blast being on the snow. It was easily the driest (meaning fastest) snow we had ever been on.  Plus, there were some boxes and jumps so Kate and I took this opportunity to practice our tricks.  No broken bones = success.

Day 4- Beer:30
On our final day in Sapporo, we knew we had to end it right.  How might we achieve trip ending perfection...? Oh, by going to the Sapporo Beer Museum, that's how!  All of us were very excited for this adventure.

The Sapporo Beer Museum was an active brewery from 1903-1965.  Before that it was a sugar factory.

Sapporo Beer Company was the established in 1876 when a German brew master was brought in to teach the Japanese how to make beer.  As you may already know, Sapporo beer has made its way all across the globe, including America.  Everyone really enjoyed the museum as we learned about the brewing process, Sapporo Beer history, and current trends.

Sapporo Space Barley beer (kirainet.com)

Probably the most interesting thing we noticed was Space Barley beer.  This beer was made from barley grown in space on the international space station and was sold in 2009 for roughly $120 per 6-pack.  Apparently it tasted like "normal beer."  Pretty boring, but I suppose that's the point in proving the feasibility of growing crops in space.

Of course we had to do some tasting.  Lucky for us they had a three beer sampler platter.  After the four of us ordered it, we became aware that we looked like a bunch of raging alcoholics.  The fact that it was barely lunch time didn't help either.  

All of the beer was great.  Everybody agreed that this was a fantastic way to end the trip.  Peace out Sapporo!

-Seth

BO-BO-BONUS ROUND!



When we got back we thought we had left the snow.  Turns out, the snow came back with us.  Katie and I seized this moment to build a snowman on top of the Ninomiya House.  

Sapporo Snow Festival: More snow sculptures than you can shake a stick at!

Day 2- Retinal white-out
After our first night, Seth and I woke up nice and early.  The Haines' were going to take the morning pretty slow so we ventured out by ourselves to hit up all of Sapporo's city monuments.  First we grabbed a smokey breakfast at McDonalds (75% of restaurant was the non-smoking section). Then we took a trip to good 'ol "Red Bricks."

Here we are in front of the old Hokkaido government building.  This building is very popular because it was built in 1888 to mimic the Massachusetts State House AND it was constructed using 2.5 million red bricks (red bricks were rare in Japan at that time). Currently it serves as a history museum for Hokkaido.  It was free and warm, so Seth and I took a mental note for later when we were with the Haines.

Once we caught up with the Haines we headed to the snow sculptures.  The picture above shows an owl native to Hokkaido as well as a model of Red Bricks.  The magnitude and detail was insane!

This is the back wall of the owl snow sculpture.  To put it in perspective, I'm 5'2" and standing about 10ft away.  The back wall is easily 4x taller than me!  Sweet sassy molassy these things were huge!  It wasn't too long before we got to one of Seth's favorite displays: The Lion KingNaturally, Seth snatched up Reagan so we could do the "Circle of Life" pose in front of it. 

(from laughingplace.com)
For lunch we grabbed a table in the middle of about 100 vendors and quickly fell into a trance.  You see, the natives of Hokkiado, the Ainu, are viewed in much the same way as we view Native Americas.  In the past they were thought of as northern savages, but now their culture is revered as being very rich.  It is no surprise that they would be given the stage to share their heritage.  

Some Ainu in their traditional attire.  The lady on the left is playing a musical instrument called the "Mukkuri."

We were privileged to be able to sit in on such a performance.  No only because it gave us insight into their practices, but also because it was just SO FUNNY!  Ok, ok, ok, I suppose the more mature members of the audience didn't see the humor in it that we did, but to us it was comic gold.  Seth went ahead and made a video for this.  Enjoy.



After lunch we kept on truckin' down the trails to see the rest of the displays.

This snow sculpture is of a Japanese animation show called Sazae-san. It has been going on for 42 years starting in 1969. This large snow statue (roughly 25" tall) was amazingly done and was easily a crowd favorite with the Japanese.

Once night had come we ate some dinner then headed back to see all of the snow sculptures at night.  Above is the "big air" snowboarding competition which Seth loved. 

This giant ice sculpture was my favorite and was very cool to see at night with all of the lights.

Above is a 1/3 scale model of one of the three main pavilions in Kyoto.  When we had spent time in Kyoto, we saw the gold pavilion which was part of the three.  Here are statistics according to a sign posted right next to it:

Amount of snow: 803 dump trucks = 4,015 tons
Number of sculptors: About 4,500 people in total
Sculpting period: 31 days 

Pretty crazy, huh?  If you would like to see more from the snow sculpture bonanza, simply click to enlarge the photo below. 


-Kate

Sapporo Snow Festival: Havin' fun, snow matter what

Allow me to introduce you to....SAPPORO
 

Sapporo Info and Festival History
Sapporo is the capital of the northern Japanese island of Hokkaido.  Although the city hosted the 1972 Winter Olympics (a first for Asia), it is perhaps most famous for Sapporo Beer in the eyes of Americans.  Throughout Japan, it is also famous for its seafood and miso ramen.
 
A healthy helping of miso ramen (left) and some Sapporo beer via the hotel's alcohol vending machine.  "Sapporo Classic" is served exclusively on Hokkaido (Kate had the little beer).  

On a normal day, Sapporo stands as the 5th largest city in Japan (1.9 million people).  However, during the Sapporo Snow Festival (Sapporo Yuki Matsuri) its population more than doubles.  This year, 2.4 million people showed up to participate in a world class exhibition of cold weather sights/activities.  To put that into perspective, that is more than the ENTIRE population of New Mexico entering and exiting this single city in the span of one week.  Yowza!

Sapporro Yuki Matsuri started in 1950 when high school students built some snow sculptures in one of the city parks.  Word about the event didn't really get out until the Japanese Self Defense Force helped by building massive snow sculptures in 1955.  Now it is host to roughly 250 ice and snow masterpieces, some of which are bigger than houses.  In order to prepare for such a huge event, a mind-boggling 325,000 tons of snow is brought into town to start building the sculptures a month in advance.  However, in addition to slack-jawed gawking, people can find all manners of winter entertainment including, skating, curling, sledding, bamboo skiing, concerts, ect, ect , ect!

Ice Sculptures
Chelsae got the 4-1-1 about the Sapporo Snow Festival waaaaay back in the summer.  We quickly realized that if we wanted to do this, we would have to commit early on.  So we booked our hotel waaaaay back in September (many hotels were already full).  Upon arrival in Sapporo, it was apparent that our planning had paid off in a big way.  Our hotel was only a stones throw away from the main ice sculpture display area.

Looking down ice sculpture road (left).  The Haines standing in front of an ice display with real fish and crab frozen inside the blocks (right).

Mobile Suit Gundam. From a popular Japanese anime series.

This guy is a man's man.  Notice the ridiculous amount of ice shavings in his hair/face.

We caught a fish THIS big.

Giant peacock.  I have nothing else to say.

After making the rounds we went back to the hotel, toasted to the town, and hit the hay.  The next day was gonna be a big one.  To see more photos from the day, click here.

-Seth

P.S. To hear a more about our preparations for our trip, read Matt and Chelsae's blog by clicking here.

Christmas with the Yanks: Lake Kasumigaura, Conclusion

My father is a fish-catching phenomenon.  

With about 10 years of fishing in multiple leagues simultaneously, he has essentially turned recreation into profession.  My dad's wall full of plaques, awards, and trophies are proof positive that he is one of the most talented bass fishermen in the southwest.  For him, the lake is the best kind of therapy.  Being that I am his favorite son (right, dad?), I catered to his love of the lakeside by planning a trip to the second largest lake in Japan, Kasumigaura Lake.  Firstly however, we had a relaxing breakfast on the top floor of the Ninomiya House. 

Sunning by the windows.
I'm pretty sure Louis hustled me.
We were amazed to find that we could see the Big Buddha from so far away.
After breakfast we all piled in the rental car and drove to the nearby town of Tsuchiura.  It is the nearest access to Kasumigaura Lake and has many parks along the lakeside.  While walking around, we spotted an area where the locals were feeding a whole gaggle of geese and some seagulls.  As we approached, Katie booked it across the street and refused to come within 100 feet of the "disease-infested, disgusting, terrifying, flying balls of evil."  She did manage to get some photos of my dad and I feeding them our of our hands.

See...?  Harmless.
We did have the good fortune of coming across a man who was doing some fishing.  My father was content with observing from afar.

Waiting. and wishing. and hoping. and praying.
We got back in the car after having a picnic and playing on Japanese playground equipment (which is of the awesome, dangerous, lawsuit inducing variety).  Dad swore up and down that he had spotted a Cabela's Outdoor Shop on our way to the lake and he HAD to stop by to check it out.  Sure enough, we pulled in and snapped the photo below.

Our crew walked inside, half-expecting to find a totally different variety of bait and tackle....we were disappointed.  Sure, there were some Japanese nuances, but nothing was 'souvenir worthy' for my dad, so we left. On our drive back we decided to go to "Tsukuba You World" for bowling. I hadn't tried bowling in Japan yet.  It was essentially the same as in the US, save for the fact that I had to write our names and age on a piece of paper so that the staff could enter our names for us.  Apparently, the most technologically savvy society in the world has a difficult time entering letters on a bowling computer. After we glanced up at the score screen it was apparent that my five year old handwriting had finally caught up to me.  Instead of reading "Sam, Mary, Louis, Katie, Seth" it read:

Som
Mary
Lcmis
KaHe
Setu

Hmmm.....well at least they got "Mary" right, right?  Oh well, we put on our shoes and headed around in search of a ball.  I couldn't put my finger on it at first, but there was something different about their bowling balls.  Then, I could put a finger on it, or rather, five fingers IN it!

Five finger bowling ball for maximum control.
Picking up the spare with immaculate form.
After an enjoyable (and regretfully expensive) bowling session, we went back to the Ninomiya House for the ceremonial, vacation-ending tako yaki dinner.


The next day Katie and I took everyone back to the airport.  I couldn't believe how awesome Mary, Louis, and Dad's trip had been.  They all did amazing when it came to foreign foods and customs.  I was very happy that they were able to experience Japan.  Not to mention the fact that they took half of Japan with them in their suitcases.

Perhaps the most surprising/enjoyable thing for me was how we all connected on a much deeper level than we have in a long time.  For some reason, in this completely unique setting, we managed to have truly meaningful conversations.  I'm forever grateful for that.

-Seth

Christmas with the Yanks: The Temples, Waterfalls, and Wild Monkeys of Nikko

Nikko is the cat's meow in terms of Japanese attractions.  It is often listed as one of the top ten places to visit throughout all of Japan.  The area is an eye candy triple-threat; lavishly decorated temples and shrines, gorgeous waterfalls and mountains, and the possibility of seeing wild monkeys.  Fortunately for us, Nikko obliged in all of the above.  

The drive to Nikko is about 2 hours north from Tsukuba via Japan's insanely expensive tollways (the 2 hour drive cost us about $35).  After we arrived, we learned that access to all shrines and temples could be bought for a low cost of 1,000 yen ($12) a person; an amazing deal considering that the entry for just one temple was 600 yen ($7) a pop.  DONE!

Dad, Mary, and Louis being dwarfed by Gojunoto, a five-story pagoda built in 1818.

Origin of "hear no evil, speak no evil, see no evil" at the Tosho-gu Shrine.  In Japan, this phrase is taught to children and is the equivalent of the Golden Rule.

Almost everyone has heard this phrase before, but who knew that it had it's roots in Nikko?!  Not this guy!  Another thing I didn't know is that the three monkeys, Mizaru (hear no evil), Kikazaru (speak no evil), and Iwazaru (see no evil) are sometimes depicted with a fourth monkey, Shizaru, with his hands crossed (do no evil).  Ahhh, the power of learning...

This day was Christmas and snow was gently drifting from the sky.  Kate expressed her awkwardness about visiting Buddhists temples on Jesus' birthday.  Duly noted.  Weirdness aside, we enjoyed these hundred year old buildings (while thinking about Jesus, of course).  Below are some pictures of the temples/shrines.

Standing next to the highly secluded Kokaman Gate. 

Kate showing off that being short pays off, especially in Japan.

I married a rebel.

Once we were all templed out, we ventured out to a couple of the many waterfalls.  The most famous waterfall, Kegon Falls, was unreachable since fresh snow prevented us from driving to it.  However, we were still able to breath in waterfall mist from two others that were close by.  I drove us on a nerve rackingly narrow/curvaceous road to the first waterfall.


Following our little photo op we started walking back to our rental car.  After examining a small pile of rocks (and debating on throwing some into the forest) I hear Mary say

"Is that a monkey on the hill side!?" 

Sure enough, as soon as we spotted one, our eyes started picking out monkeys all over the mountain! They were jumping across boulders in the stream, climbing on trees, and running around irrigation equipment.  There was about 12 monkeys in total walking/jumping/climbing everywhere in the valley.  One even dropped down some branches next to the pile of rocks we were just investigating.  I'm glad I fought off my prepubescent urge to throw those rocks.  I actually started getting nervous considering the fact that those same monkeys might have been surrounding us on our walk TO the waterfall.  They could have easily ambushed us and we would have never seen it coming. 

Here is a photo of one of our furry friends.  A big bonus was that we saw a couple of babies hitching rides on their mother's backs.

Everyone was totally stoked by our encounter.  I kept daydreaming that I was on some sort of National Geographic assignment, documenting this particular family of monkeys.  I later found out that seeing these monkeys in the area is quite common (hints all of the monkey paraphernalia).  Common or not, it made everybody's day to see those guys in the wild.  Merry Christmas to us!

Stay tuned for the conclusion of the Christmas with the Yanks series! 

-Seth

Cultural Note: Valentine's Day and White Day

Valentine's Day has always been a special day for me.  From as far back as I can remember, my mother would always celebrate Feb 14th with my brother and I by giving us chocolates, small presents, cards, and a special V-Day breakfast.  Waking up to heart-shaped pancakes, strawberry syrup, and an early morning chocolate-high was enough to move Valentines Day near the top of my holiday list.

 Just like mom used to make.  (worldcontributer.com)

As I grew up with budding hormones, this day became much more about girlfriends and romance.  I, a man, began following the American traditions of Valentines Day by buying flowers, chocolate, dinner, ect. for my significant other just like the advertisements told me to do.  Interestingly, my Valentine's Day in Japan will be reminiscent of my childhood.  This is because in Japan, it is the women who are expected to buy presents for the men.

Japanese women browsing the chocolate selection, cash in hand. (www.slashfood.com)

That's right boys, just sit back and let the girls swoon to you with arms full of sweet, sweet chocolate.  For school girls, this is the perfect chance to let that special boy (or boys) know how you feel about them.  Even in the work place, female coworkers are supposed to give gifts to their male coworkers and bosses.  These chocolates are more of a burden for women since they are called "obligatory chocolates" or "giri-choko" and are seen as a friendly gesture, not romantic.  As with most gift giving in Japan, these treats are ridiculously priced so women can end up spending a pretty penny by the time they buy chocolates for everyone they are supposed to.

But hold on...back the truck up!  Isn't Japan the land of mutual gift giving? How can men just take, take, take without reciprocation? Well they don't anymore.  In 1978, Japan created another holiday called "White Day" in which men return the favor to the women that they like.  From what I've read, it seems like White Day is very similar to the American way of celebrating Valentines Day.  Don't worry ladies, the men are expected to give gifts 2-3 times more expensive than were given to them.  So you win out in the end.

White Day candy. (geeks.pirillo.com)

In honor of my mother's tradition I made a Valentine's Day breakfast.  However, instead of pancakes, I  made Kate and myself strawberry shakes.  When I got to work I couldn't help but be disappointed.  I'm not gonna lie, I was looking forward to getting obligatory chocolates from my female coworkers, but it never happened.  I at least thought that the head honcho of the office, Iki-san, would get something from someone.  Alas, as I stealthily scoured the office for Valentine's Day chocolate, it became clear to me that maybe it wasn't as widely celebrated as I thought.  In fact, I never even heard the word Valentine throughout the whole day...the internet lied to me! :(

To see a video about Valentine's Day in Japan, click here.

-Seth

Christmas with the Yanks: Christmas gets Xmas-ed in Japan

AIST
I woke up on Chirstmas Eve day at 7 am and was at work by 8.  The paper that I submitted to the Science China journal needed a couple revisions before the deadline on Monday, 27th....ugh.  I put on my big boy pants and headed to work.  Fortunately, Kate played tour guide to Mary, Louis, and my dad as they walked around AIST's museums that day.  As mentioned in previous posts, Science Square Tsukuba was more of a crowd pleaser than the Geological Museum.
 
It may not look like it, but dad and Mary are in a totally separate room from Kate and Louis.  It is essentially the green screen effect that is used in movies.

After they got done playing "Louis' head on dad's body" we met up for lunch.  Unfortunately, I still hadn't finished at work so they trudged around the Geography museum for a while.  Later that day we all met a the house to start the Christmas festivities.

Christmas in Japan
Christmas in Japan is nothing more than a commercial holiday that you spend with your significant other.  Men are expected to spend ridiculous amounts of money on their girlfriends, and that's about it.  No family gatherings, no time off work, and no religious significance.  Although the generic atmosphere of Christmas is here (Christmas lights, Santa hats, Western Christmas music, holiday sales in stores), there is no religious depth behind it.

Of course, if you understand the religiosity of Japan this is no surprise to you.  Celebrating this time in a country comprised primarily of Buddhists means that CHRISTmas turns into Xmas.   Everywhere you turn, it's "Xmas" this and "Xmas" that.  Rarely will you actually read something that says "Christmas."  Although I do feel like America is becoming like this more and more every year, at least everyone knows the actual story behind Christmas, the birth of Jesus.  It was quite odd, to say the least.

Xmas Dinner
Roast turkey or ham, mac and cheese, mashed potatoes, gravy, green beans, eggnog, and pie.  These food items constitute what we fondly call "Christmas Dinner" in America.  As you might have guessed, Japan has quite a different menu when it comes to dinner on December 25th; fried chicken!  Not just any fried chicken, KFC fried chicken.  This is what I refer to as "Xmas dinner."


Santa Claus and Colonel Sanders are synonymous in the eyes of the typical Japanese citizen.  Through a stroke of marketing genius, KFC has convinced the entire nation that everyone else in the world eats KFC on Christmas, its a virtual monopoly.  For your viewing pleasure, I've provided this Japanese commercial.


Knowing these facts, Kate and I thought that it would be fun to make a Japanese Christmas dinner.  We opted to cook our own since we didn't want to deal with the KFC madness.  Our Xmas dinner menu was ginger soy fried chicken, sashimi, rice, sashimi salad, and for some American flair, mac and cheese. We had never hosted such a prestigious dinner, but managed to pull it off in our 6'x10' kitchen (without an oven). 

Here we are. I'm frying the chicken and Kate is putting the sashimi (raw fish) salad together.

"Xmas dinner"
 
After we had filled our bellies full of chicken and fish we went down stairs and started opening gifts!  This was great fun where we all enjoyed ourselves and laughed a lot.  Towards the end of the gift exchange the Haines came down and joined in the fun.

Kate and I felt very blessed to be surrounded by our dear friends and family during such an important holiday.   

Check back soon for our adventure to Nikko!
-Seth