Watching the Sunrise from atop the Land of the Rising Sun

"If you never climb Mt. Fuji once, you are a fool.  If you climb it twice, you are twice the fool" 

Immediately after deciding to come to Japan, conquering Mt. Fuji jumped to the top of my "I-must-do-these-things-or-I'm-an-idiot" list.  In fact, I remember the exact moment, way back in February, when Nancy said that she and Hal wanted to climb it with us.  Word on the street is that watching the sun rise from the top of Mt. Fuji is breathtaking.  So, our plan was to hike up to a mountain hut, sleep for a couple hours, then wake up and finish the hike in time to watch the sun rise.  

Mt. Fuji, or Fuji-san, is one of Japan's most iconic natural wonders.  Its almost perfect cone towers over the land at 3776 m (12,388 ft or 2.3 miles) high.  About 10 months out of the year it is snow capped, which saturates the trails in July-August with an insane frenzy of summit seekers.  We aimed to be among these crowds vying for a spot up top.

In order to get to the trail-head (5th station) by 1:00pm, we had to leave Tsukuba by 7:25am.  5 hours, 5 trains, and 1 bus ride later we were welcomed by hundreds of people at the 5th station.  



As soon as we steeped off of the bus we were hit with an air of excitement.  It took half an hour to check out the area and buy some climbing sticks.  These aren't just any climbing sticks!  These are official Mt. Fuji climbing sticks!  This means that along ascent, as you pass the stations you can get that station's logo burned onto your stick.  By the end of the hike, most of the real estate on your stick is filled up with these cool logos.  Most of these also have the elevation of that station and the year.  Pretty sweet, huh?  Below is a photo of mine after half of the hike. 


Ok, so after all that jazz, we finally started the hike.  It all felt very surreal to finally be on the trail at Mt. Fuji.  Everyone was super excited and full of energy.  As we walked along the first stretch, we passed people who were just finishing.  In retrospect, I should have gotten a clue from the people who looked like they had just come from a long, fierce battle.  However, my blissfulness blinded me as I practically skipped along the trail for the first 30 minutes.    

Looking up from the start of the switchbacks.  There were a lot of stations.   

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As we climbed up the mountain, so did the clouds.  This is a good example of how desolate the mountain can look.

There isn't too much to be said about the climb except that it was harder than I thought.  There are some sections that are fairly steep.  Not to mention, there are times where you have to stand in line as the masses bottleneck. 

About 4 or 5 hours into the hike, we reached 8th station mountain hut for some R&R.    

This was our view from the 8th station as we got settled in.

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This is where we were assigned to sleep...ugh...I could devote an entire post to the sleeping experience, but I will try to be brief.  As you can see we are are very close together and I was sleeping about 3" from another lady on my right.  That mixed with the cold, noises, bright lights, vibrations from people walking around, and overall discomfort meant that none of us slept more than a wink.  

Although we were all still drained, we got up at 1am and started getting ready to reach the summit by sun rise. 

It was definitely more crowded at these early hours than it was during the day.  As we looked down the mountain side, we could see a river of lights trickling up the mountain.  By 3am we had finally staggered through he gates at the top. There were already a huge plethora of people up top and from the looks of the river of lights down the mountain, there were going to be a lot more.  We decided to stake out a good spot and wait.  We waited for over an hour in crazy coldness and then finally....walaaa!  




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We spent a while admiring the sunrise from the edge, then we checked out the crater. 



Quite frankly we were too tired to gawk at the top for too long so we started our descent.  Again...this was harder than I thought it would be.  You have to take a different trail going down, which amounts to about 4 hours of rocky, slippery, quad-killing switchbacks.  

Here are Hal and Nancy signifying the end of our 10+ hours of hiking! 

After making it back to he 5th station we took our sweet time eating lunch, resting our legs, and basking in the glory of success.  The next item on the agenda was to catch the bus back to Kawaguchiko where we could enjoy a full night of relaxing at our hotel by the lake.  There were a ton of other photos I didn't include so click here to see more. 

-Seth

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